Toraja- Sulawesi- Indonesia

High in the rugged hills of South Sulawesi, Toraja unfolds like a land suspended between earth and sky. Mountains rise sharply, draped in mist; dense jungle creeps along the valleys, and rice fields stretch in perfect, green stairways across the hillsides. It is here, in this dramatic and vibrant landscape, that life and death exist side by side. Known as the “Land of the Dead,” Toraja treats death as a process that keeps the deceased closely connected to the living through rituals passed down for generations.

The region offers more than its striking scenery. Markets bustle with local produce, paths wind past traditional houses, and the people are welcoming, curious, and deeply tied to their heritage. While most of Indonesia identifies as Muslim, the Torajan community preserves strong Animist traditions, blended with Christian practices. This fusion of faith and ritual shapes a culture where spirituality, ceremony, and daily life are inseparable.

In Toraja, death is visible, present, and part of everyday life. Coffins rest in bamboo huts by the roadside, their painted carvings telling the stories of those within. Colourful banners and billboards announce funerals with the energy of festivals, inviting the community to witness and participate. Grieving here doesn’t feel like letting go; it feels like holding on to the essence of the person, reshaping what it means to be both living and dead. The deceased remain at home, cared for and spoken to, until the elaborate funeral rites can be performed. Loss is a patient unfolding, a transformation rather than an abrupt absence.

Rambu Solo’ ceremonies are vivid celebrations of life, death, and community. Feasts overflow, music reverberates across the hills, and dancers move in intricate patterns that honour the passage from life into the lineage of ancestors. Every chant, gesture, and rhythm is a testament to memory, respect, and continuity.

Few travellers make the journey to these highlands, but those who do encounter a place rich in culture, ceremony, and humanity — a place that will stay with me for a long time.

** Please note- Access to the content in each box below is now restricted as it’s part of a future body of work **